Discover the Volcanic Soul of Verona’s Sparkling Wine with a Durello wine tour
The region
Lessini Durello DOC, often simply called Durello by locals, is the authentic sparkling wine of Verona. This small Appellation was established in the late 1980s. Although it is still a hidden gem outside of Verona, its success is growing year after year.
The Durello production area extends east of the city and covers six valleys between Verona and Vicenza. Specifically, the Veronese part includes the same three valleys as Soave: Val d’Illasi, Val Tramigna, and Val d’Alpone. However, Durello vineyards sit at higher altitudes, ranging from 300 to 600 meters above sea level. The landscape here is a beautiful mix of hilly vineyards, olive trees, and the high pastures of the Lessini Mountains (veronese Prealps).
The soil is purely volcanic. Its origin dates back about 50 million years when a tropical sea covered this entire area. During that time, underwater volcanic eruptions created the Lessini Mountains. When the lava cooled down, it formed dark basaltic rocks. In some places, like San Giovanni Ilarione, you can see rare “columnar basalts”—long geometric stone columns created by rapid cooling.
Because the soil is rich in iron, silica, and magnesium, the wine develops a unique structure and minerality. Typical aromas include flint, sulfur, and hydrocarbons. Furthermore, these minerals act as natural nutrients that strengthen the vines, allowing farmers to reduce the use of chemicals. You can explore this fascinating landscape during a Durello wine tour.
The grape
The grape of Lessini Durello DOC is the indigenous Durella variety (85-100% of the blend).
The name ‘Durella’ (dura means hard in Italian) perfectly summarizes the unique characteristics of this grape. Firstly, it refers to its striking acidity, caused by a high concentration of malic acid. Secondly, the name reflects the grape’s very thick and tough skin. Interestingly, even though it is a white variety, the skin is remarkably rich in tannins. This combination of high acidity and tannic structure is quite rare for white grapes and provides the wine with its incredible longevity.
This is an ancient variety, known since the year 1200 as “Durasena.” In the past, its high acidity was a challenge for winemakers, often resulting in wines that were too sour to drink. However, since the 1980s, new techniques have revealed the potential of Durella for sparkling wine. The double fermentation process naturally reduces the total acidity. Consequently, Durella now produces fresh, balanced, and long-lived sparkling wines.
The wines
Lessini Durello DOC (Durello Tank Method)
This version represents about 70% of the production. It uses the same method as Prosecco, where the second fermentation takes place in large steel tanks for 1 to 6 months. This process traps the carbon dioxide to create the bubbles.
Before bottling, winemakers add a mixture of wine and sugar called “dosage” to determine the final sweetness. The most common version is Brut (6-12 grams of sugar per liter). This wine preserves the primary aromas of green apple and citrus. On the palate, it is fresh and savory with a lively perlage.
Monti Lessini DOC (Durello Traditional Method)
The Traditional Method (or Champenoise) covers 30% of production and is the highest expression of the Durella grape. In this case, the second fermentation happens inside the bottle, where the wine rests on its lees for at least 24 months.
This complex process gives the wine distinctive aromas of bread crust and pastry. After the aging period, the yeast is removed through “remuage” (turning the bottles) and “disgorgement.” Durello Traditional Method is a structured wine with an elegant perlage and notes of honey, dried flowers, and minerals.
The Riserva version requires aging on the lees for at least 36 months. As the flagship wine of every winery, it is the most beloved choice for true fans of Durello sparkling wine. Thanks to the natural structure and acidity of the grape, Durello is perfect for long aging processes, which in some cases can reach up to 100 months on the lees.
In addition to the sparkling versions, some wineries produce two niche wines: Durello Fermo (still wine) and Durello Passito (dessert wine). The still version is a wine with delicate aromas but a strong personality; it is very long-lived and requires a period of aging to soften its characteristic “sharpness.” On the other hand, Durello Passito is the sweet version. It is made from selected grapes that dry for at least two months in a well-ventilated room called a fruttaio.
The wineries
There are currently 35 wineries producing Durello. Although the DOC region covers a vast area of about 30,000 hectares, the actual surface covered by vineyards is quite limited, with only about 400 hectares currently planted. This small production makes the wine even more exclusive.
Most of these wineries are family-run businesses. Consequently, a Durello wine tour allows you to meet the family members personally and speak directly with the producer. In addition to Durello, many estates also produce wines from overlapping denominations, such as Soave.
